It’s no secret that I’m never the first kid on the block to like the newest look in shoe-laces. The same thing applies to paint colors and fancy embroidery on my butt.

But it’s okay because these trends take awhile to really catch-on. Take the practice of painting your window sashes or window trim black, for example. It’s not “new” per se, but I’m not alone in really starting to think it looks great.

Here are a few pictures that might get you revved-up for a little bit of black paint action.

Black Trim and Sunflowers – The Perfect Mix

Give me a break! This is awesome! I’d like to give that disembodied hand on that rockin’ pedestal a high five!

The trim here is a high gloss black with a very shiny, piano-like, sheen. But don’t let that scare you. If you look closely, you can see the imperfections in the wood from here, and you’re pretty far away! The point is that you might hear this from your painter (or the little voice in your head if that’s you):

If you want high-gloss paint, especially black, you’re going to need major surface prep.

Don’t believe it. At least not too much. You certainly will see more imperfections with a glossy black trim paint than you would with a flat white, but that doesn’t mean you should shy away from it. It doesn’t have to be perfect!

Before moving on from this picture, check out a couple more strokes of awesomeness in this room.

• Board and Batten Paneling – the walls in this studio are the perfect compliment to the black trim, both in color and in style. To see and learn more about board-and-batten, see this post.
• What’s with the Floors? - I can’t tell if this is a really fancy floor, such as a special concrete finish or a terrazzo, or if this is a very inexpensive floor done with painted plywood. I guess that’s the point! In any case, it looks great! Don’t you think?

Why Yellow Roses? Nothing to Be Sorry for Here!

I’m sure that black windows look good without yellow flowers in the room, but the last two pictures show that they certainly don’t hurt!

This room looks great and, like the room above, it’s very much helped-out by having awesome windows to begin with. I love the light pattern on these windows (known as a “3-over-3″ pattern)

Interestingly, this room also has a smooth white floor. This one is definitely painted.

What if You’re Normal?

It’s okay. Most of us don’t have dedicated studios with solid blocks of wood the size of a djembe, or a city apartment with walls of glass and the freedom to have white shiny floors. We are gloriously normal(ish) and have to keep our decor in the realm of semi-reality.

No worries, black is still in for you!

This kitchen combines black painted window sashes (on normal size windows) with white trim and white marble wall tile (in a running-bond pattern). A little bit of hot pizzazz is thrown in with the glossy black shelves. Love those.

The mix of colors in the mixer, brightly colored bowls, and the cool green glass bottles really makes this a great space.

Check out another “normal space” below:

Hey, if this isn’t “normal” to you, why not? Let’s get it done! The difficulty doesn’t match the awesomeness! You can do this.

A few key points of this space:

• The windows are actually a dark wood, which really look great against the white ceramic tile (not marble in this case).
• The island has a beautiful carrerra marble top. No plumbing in the island makes this much easier to add if you don’t have one already. (I’ve always wanted my own island)
• The lighting in this kitchen RAWKS! I just love the black fixtures against the wall that is completely covered in tile. Can I get an amen?
• Don’t try that crown molding your first time out if you’re DIY. That’s serious stuff at least 7″ wide.
• These windows are trimmed with an apron and a wood sill, which really adds to the look.

A Forum Thread with more info:

If you want to read more about black windows and doors, check out this forum post at iVillage GardenWeb.

While I don’t think I’ll ever give-in to the Ed Hardy-esque look in back-pocket embroidery, I think I’m sold on black windows, doors, and trim.

How about you?

Take a look at this picture and tell me what you see:

If you said “flooring” or “hardwood”, then you’re seeing exactly what you’re supposed to see as this photo was supplied in a press kit from Armstrong flooring.

If you said “tables”, I’m right there with you because there are three cool tables in this picture. I really like that tray table thingy. That’s cool and it always has the potential to be used as a ultra-hip and amply portioned TV table.

If you said “black windows” you have a keen eye and deserve to be pointed out amongst your peers. Good on you. Yes, the black painted wood windows do, indeed, RAWK!

But none of those things are what I’m talking about here.

Using Simple “1-by” Material for Trim

First, lets get past the “what’s a 1-by?”

Any of the following are in the genus “1x”:

• 1×2
• 1×3
• 1×4
• 1×6
• 1×8
• 1×10
• 1×12
• larger 1x’s are rare and should be approached with caution

These can often be found in groups and tend to congregate in close proximity to their larger cousins, the 2-by’s. (2×4′s…)

If you take a look at the picture again, you’ll notice that the trim has no special shape to it at all, and is just one simple board.

Often, you’ll see 1x with the use of what’s known as a “back-band” but as you can see here, it’s not necessary.

You can use a simple 1x trim with nothing additional and get a great look.

So, if you’re thinking of enlarging your trim, give it a shot. It’s easy as pie and looks good. The trim in this picture is 1×6.

Have fun!

If I’m leaving you with questions, you can ask it below in the comments, or at the new answers section of the site, where I try to do a little bit of Q&A every day.

Say, did you remember to bring your air-compressor and nail-gun in from the garage today? You were going to use it for that trim you wanted to install on the back of the kitchen island. Remember?

What Do You Mean You Don’t Have a Nail-Gun?

Well that’s okay. All is not lost! But you’ll still need a gun. How about a glue gun. You have one of those, right?

Use Hot Glue and Small Trim For Big Change

As long as you don’t get burned, hot glue is awesome stuff to work with. The best part is that it is fast. It holds decently well, and it’s easy.

Fast. Easy. Works. Sounds like a good plan.

As I was kicking this idea around a little, I asked myself two questions: how well does hot glue really hold? Will it work for trim? In order to find out, I would need to be sneaky. See, I don’t own a glue gun.

So I dressed up in camo appropriate for the job (ribbon, bright colors, fabric swatches) and snuck quietly into my wife’s craft room. I was in-and-out in no time flat and I got the goods. Glue gun acquired, I headed to the garage.

Testing In Progress

Using small scraps similar in size to wood trim, I used hot glue to stick wood trim onto four surfaces:

1. Finished Wood – I had a sample of a glossy finished wood flooring. The surface would be very similar to your cabinets.
2. Laminate – I used laminate flooring with a little bit of texture to it. This would be similar to a formica counter or cabinet door.
3. Ceramic Tile – A somewhat glossy ceramic floor tile. Just to see what would happen.
4. Glass – I stuck a piece of wood on front of an aquarium. (fun)

The idea was simply to see if it would stick, and how strong it would hold. The short answer is that it was very easy to do and it most definitely holds strong enough for the ideas I’m sharing here. You can pull it off, but you have to pull.

The best stick was on the finished wood, the worst was the ceramic tile, but all of the surfaces held the wood.

One tip: Use a small beaded line down the middle of your trim. You want to avoid glue squishing out all over the place when you apply pressure and hold the piece firmly while the glue sets.

Here are five simple ideas:

1. Make Panels On a Wall

We’ve all seen rooms with a paneled look. Oftentimes we see this under chair-rail as part of a wainscot look. Sometimes it’s done on a whole wall. If you only have a little bit to do (for a whole lot, you would want to just get a nail-gun) you can use glue for this.

One place I think this would work great would be on the plain wall under a high-bar area.

The picture below from www.kellyfradet.com is just an imagination kicker…you would want to use smaller trim, but you can see that creativity goes a long way.

2. Create an Accent Around a Light Fixture

This idea works on a wall or a ceiling and will dress-up the look of a plain light fixture in no time flat. Create a small frame (larger on the ceiling) around the light fixture by gluing on wood trim. Then paint the middle an accent color (or cool wallpaper) and you’ve just made a big improvement.

3. Turn A Flat Door Into a Paneled One

I think most of us, either now or at some point in the past, have lived in a house with smooth (and very plain) doors.

You can use hot-glue and small trim to transform that door into one with a paneled door look. It might end-up looking something like this.

4. Add Interest To Kitchen Cabinets

How many things can you do with small trim in your kitchen?

• create a large diamond pattern on the wall between upper and lower cabinets
• add panels to the end of an island cabinet
• add interest to flat panel doors, or create a framed look around flat laminate doors
• glue a little frame of wood on the side of your fridge and make a magnetic version of the next idea…

5. Put a Chalkboard on Your Door (or Wall)

This is one of my favorite of these ideas. I love the creative uses for chalkboard paint and this hot-glue-wood-trim may fill in the missing link for your chalkboard dreams.

Paint a square (using painter’s tape to keep clean edges and square) of chalkboard paint on any flat surface.

Once you’re done, use hot glue to apply wood trim over the edge to cover the transition and frame the chalkboard. You could also do the trim first if you prefer.

Here is a similar look from The Pleasures of Homemaking, the only difference is that she just hung a frame over the chalkboard.

By using glue and wood trim you can be more flexible with the size and location.

The Possibilities Are Endless

Is it 100% fail-proof? Naaaww… It’s still just glue, so it can come off, but when you take the ease and simplicity of the job into consideration it’s well worth the risk and possible need to glue a piece back up at some point in the future.

You can cut mitered joints with a hand saw miter-box, or if you don’t even have one of those, small trim can be sanded into shape with coarse sandpaper! Truly a no tools required job.

If you give some of these ideas a try, I’d love to hear about it and maybe see a picture or two. Have fun and watch those fingers!

I’ve been meaning to stop the presses for a week or so now to show you this:

Kristen at Pajama Mama made this shelf using the drawings and pictures I put together a few weeks ago. It looks fantastic and she’s got a great post telling you about it.

Here is her post and here are the Crown Molding Coat Hook Shelf Plans.

Thanks for letting me know about this Kristen! It looks fantastic!

Hi Tim,

Your site has inspired me to install crown molding in my dining and living rooms. However, if I start and I like how it looks, I know I’ll want to do the whole main floor. Our house came with beautiful 4-1/2″ base molding and the ceiling just looks so bare. If I like my work, I may go on to doing trim molding around the bottom half of the dining room.

What equipment do I need? At what point is it cost effective to buy machinery for this? Can you recommend a book that shows different moldings up close so I can go to the hardware store and just point, asking whether they carry that? Can you give me an approximate cost on putting up a 6″ crown molding around a 12×15 room?
Thank you!
Mary

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Hi Mary,

I’m glad to hear you’re going to go for it on the crown molding! I know you won’t be dissappointed!

I’ll answer your questions one-by-one:

What equipment do I need?

Cutting The Crown

The toughest part of installing crown molding for most people is getting the cuts in the corner done right. The larger the crown, the harder that can be. There are books and websites that give you all the angles for cutting it flat on a smaller miter saw, but I’ll tell you, in my experience the job is much easier if you can cut the crown while holding it in the same position it will be installed at. Which means it won’t be laying flat.

This requires a miter saw, and for 5.25″ crown, you’ll need a 10″ miter saw. For larger crown, you’ll probably need a 12″ saw. If you’re only doing one room, it may be smart to rent the saw. If you plan to do the whole house, you might buy one.

Tip: if you live in a populated area, watch Craigslist.org for deals. People sell tools cheap sometimes! Believe me.

I found a video that does a good job of showing the idea of cutting crown molding.

Nail or Staple Gun

Crown molding is installed in a variety of ways depending on your wall surface and the size of your crown. Large crown, or crown molding installed on a hard wall such as plaster, will usually require some solid wood installed behind it (in the gap created by the angle) so that you can nail to that with finish nails. The point being that you can use huge ugly screws to install the support wood and get it firmly attached to the wall, then use tiny little nails for the crown.

Smaller crown is sometimes installed with a “crown stapler” which is an air tool that shoots long narrow staples. These are nice for drywall because they hold better than regular nails, but I really don’t like the wider hole they leave at the top. (which I have to finish)

My favorite form of attachment for crown on drywall is finish nails or brad nails, shot with an air nailer. In order to gain a better hold, I alternate the angle of the nails. They are often only hitting drywall, though I do mark framing locations and hit that when possible. Some installers don’t worry about hitting any framing and rely on the caulking to hold the crown in-place along with the nails. I try and hit wood in at least a few points along each piece.

Generally, longer nails are best for crown molding.

A Helper!

It’s a bear trying to do crown molding alone. They make tools for holding up the other end, and you can cut a board to length to use as a “deadman” to prop it up, but you’ll find the work to go much faster with two people.

Can you recommend a book that shows different moldings up close so I can go to the hardware store and just point, asking whether they carry that?

Amazon.com has books on crown molding, but I’ve never personally reviewed them. They look to be very helpful from what I can see.

If you dig a little using the site search, categories, or site map, you’ll find that I’ve got dozens of posts related to interior trim. They’ll be full of pictures and tid-bits of information. One in particular that comes to mind is Selecting Crown Molding – Sizes, Profiles, Options.

I would think that a picture would work for you in the store. If you can get someone to help you that knows anything at all, they should be able to look at the picture and see what profiles of mouldings are used.

Can you give me an approximate cost on putting up a 6″ crown molding around a 12×15 room?

Of course this depends on quite a number of factors such as your location, they type of wood your material is made of, and the uniqueness of the profile.

But sure, I’ll give you a ballpark. In my area, using standard materials, you’re looking at less than $100.00 worth for the crown, the nails, the caulking, and maybe even the paint.

———————

I hope this helps, and have fun with it! (a good radio is best for that!)

What is it about beadboard?

As a contractor for twenty years, I can’t recall ever hearing anyone say they don’t like it. At the same time I can remember hundreds of ooh’s and ah’s, gasps for breath, and near fainting when just the idea of beadboard was discussed! Not too many materials can claim such rarified status, especially not too many made, for the most part, of wood!

The bottom line is that beadboard just rocks, full-on! I love it, you love it, your spouse loves it, everybody loves it! (pretty much) We’re going to dedicate the next three installments of this ongoing series on all things related to wood paneling specifically to beadboard!

We’re going to start off with some serious photographic inspiration, because a clear vision is always the most important part of a great remodeling project! Let’s get to it!

Beadboard Pictures Galore

You’ve seen the people who can stand in a museum and look at a painting on a wall for hours. This is my Mona Lisa… I’m in awe of that cabinet, especially against that wall! cottage of stone

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Beautiful recylced tongue and groove beadboard: www.coastalliving.com

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Very water resistant, wood beadboard wall panels make a great wainscot in bathrooms. www.coastalliving.com

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Beadboard ceilings and wall paneling combine with amazing window trim in this incredible bath. This photo shows a proper height when running up the wall higher. I’ve seen some pictures that are close to halfway, and that doesn’t look as nice. About 2/3. www.hgtv.com

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Beadboard makes great cabinet door panels…and I love the open shelves in this kitchen!

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A very common mistake, but still a misnomer, is to call this beadboard. It looks similar, but this is v-joint tongue & groove paneling.

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Running beadboard horizontally looks great and is much easier than you would think! If you use solid tongue and groove pine (or other solid wood) you can easily hang things like that rack with just a few screws. How cool is that?

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In the next installment we’re going to talk about the details of real solid wood tongue and groove beadboard, then after that we’ll get into the easier, and often just as pretty, beadboard panels.

If you have any pictures of beadboard work you’ve done or some great ones you’ve seen, I’d love to see them. You can always email me: tim@remodelingguy.net

If you want to subscribe to my blog to be sure not to miss the next parts of the series (we haven’t even gotten into flat panels and raised panels yet!), you can do that here: subscribe to Remodeling Guy

Previous Posts in RG’s Complete Guide to Wood Paneling:

Post#1: Introduction

Post#2: A brief look at various paneling types and options

Post #3: Board and Batten Wall Panels

Post #4: Tongue and Groove V-Joint (walls and ceilings)

If you subscribe to the RemodelingGuy IdeaLetter then you’ll recognize this picture. I noticed this recently in a brochure for Ralph Lauren Paints and included the idea in a newsletter, telling folks how easy it would be to build one of these!

A bunch of you wanted to know exactly how it was put together. So that’s what I’m going to show you today.

How-To Make A Coat hanger Shelf with Crown Molding (and a few other parts)

The parts of this are very simple and I’ve done a detailed drawing to show you both a cross-section, and a straight-on view (elevation).

If you click on that image, it will open up a larger version. You can clearly see that the shelf assembly is made-up of five parts altogether:

1. A solid 2×10 as the main structure
2. A 1×6 shelf with a rounded front edge
3. Crown molding wrapped on three sides (front and each end)
4. A smaller molding (name varies) used to finish the bottom edge
5. Coat hangers

How-To Build This Coat Hanger Shelf

Materials required:

• 1 – 2″x10″ x 8′ long (any smooth surface wood such as spruce or fir)
• 1 – 1″x6″ x 8′ long (use the same type of wood if possible)
• 1 – 8′ length of approx. 3″ crown molding (may be slightly more or less)
• 1 – 8′ length of smaller 1″ or 1.5″ molding (see drawings for profile)
• 6 – coat hanger hooks (amazon link at end of post)
• 150 grit sandpaper
• 60 grit sandpaper (to round shelve edges – also could use router)
• long screws or toggle bolts to attach 2×10 to wall
• short screws to attach shelf to 2×10
• brad nails, trim nails, or trim screws to attach crown and bottom molding
• wood glue
• primer
• paint
• Coat Hooks

Tools Required:

• This can be done with a handsaw and a hand miter-box, but I would use a 10″ miter saw for all cuts.
• A router would be helpful to round the shelf edges, but you can use sandpaper
• A cordless or corded drill to screw the shelf to the 2×10, to screw the trim on with finish screws if you don’t have a brad nailer or trim nailer (air tools), and to install the whole thing on the wall.

Before we go through the basic steps: I’m not an ultra-detailed instruction kind of fella. I’m more apt to show you picture, tell you what kind of stuff is in it, and keep on rolling than I am to tell you what size screw to use, at what drill speed, at what angle, in what kind of wood, at what time of year, in specific humidity and under the correct astrological sign. If I leave something out, you can ask in the comments.

Step One – Prepare The 2×10

Cutting the 2×10 to length. I’ve drawn the drawing at 6′ long. It works great at that length with six coat hooks and allows it all to be made with 8′ lumber. You can make it whatever length you want.

You have to decide if you want to cut the ends of the 2×10 square or if you want to miter the ends and put a small return into the wall. If you cut it square, you’ll see what’s known as “end-grain” at the ends of the board. This is harder to finish cleanly and smoothly. How hard depends on the lumber. You can cut a test and see if it looks smooth enough. If so, you’ll find a square end-cut to be much easier (and safer to make).

Step Two – Install The Top Shelf

It’s easier to build this whole thing on the ground and paint it prior to installing. So the next step will be to install the shelf on top. I’ve drawn the shelf at 4″ more than the 2×10 on each end, so a total of 6′-8″ long. It is important to note, that this dimension has more to do with the protrusion of the crown molding than anything else. You’ll want to have an understanding of how far out from the face of the 2×10 your crown molding will come before making this cut. See drawings to better understand.

Round the front edge of the shelf using a router or the 60 grit sandpaper. (you’ll need to smooth it with the 150 before painting)

Use wood glue along the top edge of the 2×10 and position the shelf so that the same amount hangs off of each end, past the 2×10 (should be about 4″). I would use brad nails to hold the piece in-place while I add screws to strengthen the joint. You’ll putty and sand the holes before painting. (but these are in an inconspicuous place anyway) Use something like a 2.5″ wood screw, about 10″ on-center (7 or eight screws holding the back edge of the shelf to the top of the 2×10). Depending on the wood and the screws, it may be helpful to pre-drill the holes.

Step Three – Install The Crown Molding

There are many tutorials online about how to cut crown molding. If you can get a helper, the easiest way is to hold it securely in exactly the same position as it will be installed. With something this small you can skip the whole “upside-down cut” thing, but you might need help for safety. You always have to watch your fingers and eyes when cutting with power saws.

You can hold your crown securely on the 2×10 and mark it at each end. I would try and leave the bulk of my “drop” at one end to make cutting the returns safer. You want your crown molding to be the exact length of the 2×10 if measured from the inside bottom of the crown. If anything, make it an eighth longer and split the difference. Just don’t make it shorter!

I’m not a professional how-to author… so I don’t really know how to say… stick the crown molding on there like in the picture! Use brad nails and glue if you have an air nailer. Otherwise you can use trim screws. You can’t hand nail this unless you use a tiny hammer. Since this is not on the wall yet, you won’t be able to hammer it. Too wobbly.

Step Four – Install The Bottom Molding

This is a very similar process to the crown molding, but the bottom molding doesn’t go past the ends, instead it ends just prior to the 2×10 end. Again, see pictures and drawings.

Step Five – Paint it.

I’d fill all nail and screw holes, sand the whole thing with 150 grit, put on a coat of primer, sand again, and paint.

Step Six – Install On The Wall

Here’s where the major disclaimer comes in: every wall is different! How you install this on the wall totally depends on your wall. If you have a wall made of solid 3/4″ thick wood paneling your installation is super easy. If your wall is drywall and your studs are totally not where you need them, then your installation will be harder.

The ideal installation will allow you to install it with long wood screws in the exact location of the coat hooks. This way you can install the coat hooks when it is in place and cover your mounting screws. With the coat hooks set at 12″ apart, this will work on many walls with 24″ OC studs. But it won’t work as well with 16″ OC Studs.

You can just find your studs, screw the shelf to the wall in those locations (getting the strongest attachment to solid wood) and then just install the coat hooks over the screws. If the spacing doesn’t work you can putty and paint over the screws.

Alternatively, you can use adequately sized toggle bolts in the exact location of the coat hooks. Just counter-sink the bolt heads a little so that the coat-hook will fit over the top and cover the toggle bolt.

I’m leaving the final installation open because you really need to be the judge of the strength of your wall, the weight of your shelf, the size of your mounting hardware, and the overall combination of everything.

I hate to sound simplistic about this, but the way most professionals make sure that they have the thing on there really strong is to really pull on it hard. It should be very solidly in-place. If not, it’s not safe to leave on the wall.

If you have questions, ask in the comments and check back there for the answer. I’ll do my best to help.

And don’t forget, this great idea originally showed-up in the Remodeling Guy IdeaLetter. Don’t miss it! The sign-up link is at the top of the page in the header.

If you use these drawings and instructions there is no charge, but there is something you can do to help me… please post links back to this post on your blog, facebook page, twitter, or wherever you can. Those links all help others find this resource which helps the blog to grow over time. Thanks!

Resources at Amazon.com

Ever have a day that didn’t turn out as expected? Today was one of those days! I find that taking a look through some of my collection of awesome pictures helps me get my mind re-focused on good things!

Would you like to join me? This picture is from countryliving.com and it has two features I just love, love, love!

First, that incredible bed! I just think it’s so neat to see the ends of those giant timbers they used to build that. A look through some pictures like this might have you looking for a carpenter rather than a furniture store!

Second is the awesome window trim! I love the use of traditional window casing, aprons, and sills… all made out of wood and painted a great accent color. This job uses a piece of trim known as a “back-band” on the outer edge of the casing. Really looks fabulous!

My crazy day today looks like it’s going to roll into tomorrow, but stay tuned a few days… I have a really awesome wood shelf to show you that you can do yourself (it’s so cool!) and I’ll be posting the next post in the current series on Wood Paneling.

When you get ready to build that new fireplace surround, don’t settle for anything less than “wow!”. You can get exactly what you want without paying a fortune if you do your homework.

Use Pictures To Express Your Ideas

• With the availability of so many pictures online, you can find exactly what you want. Your project will go more smoothly when pictures express your desires.
• If you can find the exact look, great! If not, have a few pictures you can show your builder or carpenter. Tell them specifically what you like about each one.
• Even with a picture, verbally describe the things you like. If the picture above is perfect, you might say “I like the narrow mantle depth.” This keeps the builder from making it deeper because he likes it that way!

Educate Yourself On Where The Costs Are

Here are a few examples:

• Flat panels (the area inside the center squares on each leg) are less expensive than raised panels.
• Painted surrounds are less expensive than stained.
• If you want stained, wood species comes into play. Brazilian Cherry is going to cost more than White Pine or local Oak.
• If you’re fine with the use of MDF (which sometimes paints-up nicer than wood anyway) make sure you ask for it. The cost is substantially less most of the time.

You Want Electricity Near The Hearth and Mantle

• Decorations or lights during the holidays
• Small lamps on the hearth or mantle look fantastic
• Fix-Mount light fixtures, like in the photo above, really add to the look.
• In case you ever fold and allow the flat screen TV up there!

Here’s to some great fireplace surrounds! Send me some before and afters!  The photo above is courtesy of RemodelingCenter.com

One of the hottest “new” trends I’m seeing this year is the extensive use of real wood paneling. I say “real” because I’m not talking about the wood paneling of the 1970′s. No photo-finish veneer paneling here! I’m talking about real wood paneling!

Paneling Wood Comes In Many Forms

The number of looks that can be obtained using wood to cover your indoor walls is vast. Over the next few weeks, we’re going to cover all of the best and coolest of them! Such as:

• painted wood paneling
• ceiling wood paneling
• beadboard paneling
• board-and-batten paneling
• plywood paneling
• real wood veneer paneling
• wainscot paneling
• raised-panel paneling

We’ll see pictures of all of these ideas and we’ll look at both traditional and modern looks that can be obtained with wood.  Don’t miss a single idea in this series, Subscribe by Feedburner Email!

Installing Wood Paneling

Our training wouldn’t be complete if we stopped with the ideas. We’re also going to look at the practical knowledge of:

• What to buy
• Where to buy it
• How to install it
• How to finish it
• What goes with it

By the time we finish, you’ll be a Paneling Ninja!

I’m coming up on the one year anniversary for Remodeling Guy. In that time, I’ve learned a little about me and blogging. I’m not great at keeping to set blogging schedules. Other duties sometimes interfere.  (see the subscribe links below to be sure not to miss anything)

So installments in this post series will have little, if any, discernable pattern. I might post two installments in a day, or one a week. Maybe on Monday, maybe on Thursday. Who knows?

I’ll mix these posts in with other regular content.

I expect the series overall to be fairly complete and detailed. It will probably take at least a half-dozen posts, probably more.

Ninja Training is serious business, especially when tons of awesome pictures are involved.

Don’t miss anything! Subscribe to Remodeling Guy for free at either of the following links:

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I hope you enjoy the series.

Post #2 – A Gazillion Types Of Wood Paneling

Post #3 – Board-and-Batten Paneling

Post #4 – V-Joint Tongue and Groove Paneling

Post #5 – Beadboard Inspiration (lots of pictures!)