It all started with a magazine ad:

This is one Awesome Room! - Nice floors too!

When I saw this ad, I was going to write a post about the room.  You know, one of those ones where I go item by item and talk about how cool the room is.

I was going to talk about the open-beam ceiling, the stone walls, the awesome doors, the cool black framed mirror, and the green rattan chair. That was my plan.

Then I noticed the floors.

I know, I was supposed to notice that first.  It’s a floor ad.  But I’m me and that’s just what I do.  But when I did notice the floors, I really noticed them.

It was the ad copy that got me.

I want a floor that will give my home a look that normally takes decades to earn.

At first I was like, oh please. But then I thought about that a little and I looked at the floor in the picture.  I finally concluded… “why not?”  If I can get a floor that really does have that oldvintage look, and it is real wood so it sounds good and feels good, then why not?

Does It Really Look Rustic?

Not quite as rustic without the stone walls, but still looking pretty good!

As you can see, the ad is from Shaw Floors.  I’ve installed thousands and thousands of square feet of Shaw products over the years and I’ve never had a problem with any of it that I recall.  So it’s good stuff, but does it really look old?  I went to the website to look at this exact product to see what I could see.

Rosedown Hickory Plank

From the Epic Legends collection, this stuff does appear to have a pretty nice rustic look to it.  I think the addition of stone walls and an awesome open beam ceiling can do wonders for any floor, but overall, I thought this was nice.

While I was on the product page at the website, I saw a standard spec sheet.  This is the kind of thing you’ll see when looking at any manufactured wood floor and it’s the lingo your flooring guy will use when he’s talking to you.

I thought maybe I could lend a helping hand and explain some of these terms.  Here is a screenshot from the product page:

Standard Flooring Specs

• Plank Width: 5″ – For a rustic floor, that’s about perfect.  (always get wood that has “real” seams between all planks… sometimes manufacturers will make a product that looks like two or three pieces of wood in every actual piece… this ends up looking fake due to difference between fake seams and real seams)
• Plank Length: Random – This is really important for a good looking floor.  When all the planks are the same length the look isn’t as natural.  The same thing as above applies to end joints.  You really don’t want any fake joints.
• Plank Thickness: 3/8″ –  Usually, thicker means more plies, and thinner means fewer plies.  But it’s the top ply that is the most important.  How thick the actual finished material ply is will effect how well the floor wears over time.  I prefer floors at least 1/2″, but there are many products at only 1/4″.  This one is in the middle as far as thickness goes.
• Micro-Beveled Edges – These are really a pretty good thing overall, especially on a rustic looking floor.  This means that the edges of each plank are slightly angled at the very top, so when you put two of them together it creates a more visible seam.  This is good because it’s forgiving of mistakes in installation and imperfections in your sub-floor.  (the negative is that these can catch tiny amounts of dirt, but it’s really not an issue.  You also don’t want this if you want a “slick” looking floor)

I almost forgot the installation options: Nail, Staple, Glue, or Float.  That pretty much covers all of them.  The more versatility here the better.  It keeps your options open to fit various sub-floors, installer preferences, or easy DIY learning curves.  (The easiest IMHO is nail or staple, assuming you have a wooden sub-floor)

Can you believe all that started with a magazine ad?

I hope this is helpful.  If I can answer any questions, please ask them in the comments.  When I reply, you’ll get an email.

~RG

I’ve done a whole lot of remodeling, and I’m pretty sure I’m about to share the absolute fastest and easiest home-improvement project I’ve ever completed. And the difference is amazing.

I was recently at the Delta Faucet headquarters in Indianapolis to learn about some great new things they’re doing in terms of design and technology. When I left, I snuck out with a showerhead. (couldn’t figure out a way to stuff a new touch operated kitchen faucet in my shirt)

Here’s the showerhead I grabbed:

This awesome showerhead is part of the Addison Series by Delta Faucet. You can buy just the showerhead for $87.00 (list) or the whole new valve and trim.

So here’s the big deal: I unscrewed the old showerhead and screwed this one on. Elapsed time: about one minute max.

I liked my old showerhead. It had good pressure and a nice spray. I was skeptical that I’d be wanting to leave the new Delta Showerhead in place, even after an impressive demonstration at Delta HQ.

That thought changed pretty quickly. As soon as the new head was installed, I thought “wow, that looks great”. It’s really a very nice looking piece of plumbing hardware.

But when I first took a shower with this new head, I was instantly converted. This showerhead uses a new Delta Faucet technology they refer to as H2O Kinetic. It’s not an easy thing to explain, but I’ll give you the highlights:

• The size of water droplets is controlled and varied
• The direction of the water spray is not static…it moves.
• Their is no induction of air into the shower spray so the water stays warmer.

I’m telling you what, it feels like twice the volume of water (even though it actually uses less than my old showerhead at only 2gpm flow) and the temperature difference is significant. I can literally compare it to a waterfall, just with less water.

I think what I’m trying to put into words is that there is a noticeable difference in that you instantly recognize the lack of voids in the water spray. I didn’t realize they were there, until they were gone.

I honestly can’t think of any project in your house that can make more of an improvement in your life with anywhere near so little effort. Again, this took less than one minute to accomplish.

If you’re doing a whole bathroom remodel you should also consider changing to a new shower valve. You’ll get better temperature control (especially when someone flushes a toilet!) and the full Delta warranty. If your walls are open anyway, it’s not a big job to change the valve.

We’ve had some rough, rough times lately with one of our sons spending way too much time in hospitals and doctor’s offices. In times like that, showers have always been a nice few minutes. This showerhead has made that few minutes of quiet so much better.

You should give it a try.

I was recently involved in a discussion about whether or not a relatively complex plumbing procedure could be considered a DIY job.

This was no simple job. It was the kind of thing that involves tearing out tile and cutting pipes, which, depending on the material of your plumbing can be an art in-and-of-itself.

It brings up a question: What exactly is or isn’t a DIY job and when is it time to hire a pro?

The answer to that question can be fairly complex. It depends on time, money, skill level, tools available, and the laws and codes involved.

I really don’t think there is a clear-cut solution. Some DIY’ers are as skilled as a pro, while others should really stick with simple projects.

So I asked myself… what are ten reasons to take the plunge and hire a pro?

Over the next few posts, I’m going to elaborate on each of these points, so if you’re considering a choice between the DIY route and the option of hiring a pro, stay tuned.

The posts will be available in the “Hiring a Contractor” category.

I’m open to comments… more reasons? Reasons not to hire a pro?

“I need a new kitchen!” These words are often spoken with some combination of feelings. These might include excitement, anticipation, and maybe a bit of old-fashioned fear! Fear of the work being too hard, fear that the cost will be too high, and fear of a bunch of contractors making life way too complicated!

I’ve got an idea for you today that might help put some of those concerns at ease. An idea that works for anyone looking to remodel a kitchen on a budget. Especially those who like the layout they already have. Here it is: Rather than replace the whole set of cabinets, try replacing just the doors.

Replacement Kitchen Cabinet Doors Are Nothing To Fear

Most of this article is focused on the DIY approach to this job, but these same ideas can work to save you money if you want to hire a capenter, cabinet maker, or contractor.

No matter your approach, replacement kitchen cabinet doors will save you a bundle of money as compared to new cabinets.

Cabinets Doors Are Most Of What You See

Take a look at your kitchen cabinets. What percentage of visible surface is doors? If you have a European style cabinet, it may be 100%, but even for a traditional design, the percentage is very high. The simple fact is that the visual component of cabinets is heavily focused on the doors.

This means that new cabinet doors will result in a visual impact very similar to a whole new cabinet! That said, a good bit more work is required to really complete the job. But it is all something you can totally do yourself.

This article is meant to be a relatively comprehensive overview of the various components of this job. We’ll start with the doors, move on to the process of updating the fixed components of your cabinets, and then finish with a brief overview of the hardware you’ll need.

Cabinet Doors – Make Them, Buy Them, or Have Them Made

Make Your Own Cabinet Doors

If you’re of the adventerous sort and have a fair dose of woodworking skill, you might be wondering if you can make your own cabinet doors. Of course the answer is yes! But the level of skill and tools required varies widely with the type of door you want to use.

Simple Plywood Cabinet Doors

The most basic cabinet door you can make is so simple, you can do it in about ten minutes! It’s only a matter of cutting a sheet of quality plywood to size. For the most basic form, that’s actually pretty much it.

• Cut the plywood to size.
• Sand the edges and faces.
• Paint it or finish it.
• Done!

Depending on your experience with plywood, you may be thinking: what about the big gaps in the edge of the plywood? You know what I mean, you cut a sheet of plywood and when you look at the edge, there are openings in the inner plys, sometimes quite large. These are called voids.

There are two options for that: the first is to use wood filler to fill these gaps prior to painting or finishing. The second, that you might not be aware of, is to buy plywood that doesn’t have that to begin with!

Plywood is available in various quality levels and one of the measures of quality has to do with the “voids”. You can buy plywood that is 100% void-free.

A Step-Up From Simple Plywood Cabinet Doors

No matter how high-quality your plywood is, it can be very difficult to make the edges appear totally smooth. Most simple plywood doors don’t totally cover the plys on the edge. You see the lines.

If that doesn’t sound like something you would like, there are a couple of easy alternatives.

1. You can use a glue-on edge band
2. or you can install a solid wood edge.

Glue-On Edge Band for Plywood Doors

Edge Banding is about as simple as it gets. Most of it has heat activated glue and, are you ready for this, you iron it on. With a regular iron. I’ll never forget the time we were building a huge set of top-dollar cabinets and our professional iron broke. I had to run to Wal-Mart and buy a regular clothes iron to finish the job. That was the most non-tool looking tool I ever purchased!

You just roll the banding on the edge, heat and press with the iron, let the glue set for awhile, then trim the excess off the edge with a sharp razor blade. A light sanding on the edge and the whole door looks like a slab of solid wood.

Solid Wood Strips On The Cabinet Door Edge

If you want to keep your DIY replacement kitchen cabinet doors simple, but you don’t like the look of a flat slab, you can add some depth and visual interest by adding a wood strip to the edge that protrudes a little beyond the face of the plywood.

By cutting your plywood panel 1.5 inches less than the size you want in the end, you can simply add some stock 1-by material (3/4″ thick) to the edge and meet your finished size easily.

This looks nice if you allow the edge strip to protrude a little. About 1/4″ looks nice. So if you’re using 3/4″ thick plywood (recommended for cabinet doors), you would use 1″ x 3/4″ wood strips for the edge.

Flat Panel Cabinet Doors

Another step-up on the time/effort/skill scale is a nice flat-panel door. Rather than a solid plywood structure, these doors are made in a more traditional style using five parts.

• Stiles – on either side of the door
• Rails – at the top and bottom
• Panel – the insert that fills the center of the door

There are a number of tutorials online that show how to make these doors at varying levels of detail and using graduating degrees of complex joinery and woodworking techniques.

One simple manner that I’ve used in the past is taking a solid 1×4 and cutting what’s known as a rabbet on the back edge, 1/4″ deep by 3/4″ wide, which creates a space for a flat panel. You can use plywood, mdf, or even a chalkboard for this flat panel insert.

Raised Panel Cabinet Doors

As flat panel doors are a step-up from simple plywood doors, so raised panel doors are a step-up from flat panels. As such, the whole concept really requires its own article and tutorials! Suffice it to say that the concept is very similar to flat panel in terms of door construction, and the complexity is mostly involved in the construction of the panel itself.

All of these doors are something that you can build yourself and when you install them, you’ll have a great new kitchen.

Buy Replacement Cabinet Doors

If you want to do the finish work yourself and install them yourself, you can still save a fortune with much less work by buying replacement cabinet doors from a company that specializes in this niche.

I’ve bought at least four or five kitchens full of doors from one particular company who provides great doors, but there are dozens (at least) that do nothing but build cabinet doors.

The company I’ve used in the past is Walzcraft, but there are many more listed online.

These companies all have huge selections and all you have to do is give them the measurements, select a style, and decide if you want them to do the finishing.

Pay your money (it can add up!) and a few weeks later a huge pile of boxes show up full of beautiiful cabinet doors.

Have Them Made

The last option is similar to the previous, but what I’m referring to here is going to a local cabinet maker or woodworker and having them make your replacement doors for you, with the understanding that you’ll finish them and install them. (or have them finish the doors for you!)

This option is nice because you can have more control over the design details. You can probably make your own design combining edge details, wood species, panel shape, and other factors to really make the door you want (though all those options are available from the big companies too).

If you want to really incorporate something unique, such as a wood carving or some stained glass you already own, this is the way to go.

Interestingly, it’s very possible that having the doors custom made locally might actually cost less than ordering them from a larger company. The trick to that is shopping around and knowing what the market price is for what you want.

What About The Rest Of The Cabinets When Replacing Doors

When you replace your cabinet doors, you cover the vast majority of the visible component of the cabinets, but not everything. What do you need to do to the rest to make it all look like new?

The answer depends on the style of your cabinets. They might be European Style or Face Frame (or a few varieties of these).

European Style Cabinets – generally consist of a plywood box with no face on it. If you remove the doors, you don’t see anything but the inside of the cabinets. These require the least work when replacing cabinet doors.

Face-Frame Style Cabinets – this style is more traditional and probably more common overall. With the doors in-place, you see some flat solid wood between your doors, usually a couple of inches or so. This wood is called the “face frame”. These type cabinets require a bit more effort when using replacement doors.

The Common Thread

Really, the gist of what is necessary between the two styles is the same. Anything that’s left when the doors are removed, or anything that is visible with them installed that isn’t part of the doors, has to be refinished to match your new doors, or to accent them the way you want.

The good news is that usually this is pretty do-able work. Especially if you’re painting your cabinets rather than staining them.

Installing The Doors

I’ve done these myself a number of times and I can tell you, it’s really not that terribly difficult. The market is full of custom tools and jigs, and you might be told you need a drill-press or other special machine. Sure, those things help, but not having them doesn’t mean you can’t do the job!

For regular exposed hinges all you really need is a drill with a tiny drill bit (for predrilling), a screwdriver (a hand screwdriver works fine), a tape measure, and a pencil.

For concealed hinges, you’ll need to add what’s known as a “forstner bit” to the mix for drilling a large flat bottom hole in the back of the door. This is a step you want to be extra careful with! No drilling huge holes all the way through!

To avoid that, you can mark the bit at the proper depth for your hinges. A scrap of lumber is good for a little trial and error testing before you start on your fancy new doors!

The End Result: A kitchen that looks brand new and a wallet with a few dollars left!

If you’re considering a kitchen remodel, think about replacement kitchen cabinet doors as an option!

Questions? I know that this is an undertaking with more questions than I’ve answered here. I’ll be adding more information as I can (might even do a bit at my house and show you) and eventually I’ll have the whole process detailed on the blog. But in the meantime, if you want to do this in your house and you have questions, please feel free to leave your question in the comments and I’ll get to it as quickly as I can.

One good way to be sure you don’t miss updates to this category is to subscribe to Remodeling Guy in a feed reader. It’s free and, at least in theory, you won’t miss a single new detail!

If you subscribe to the RemodelingGuy IdeaLetter then you’ll recognize this picture. I noticed this recently in a brochure for Ralph Lauren Paints and included the idea in a newsletter, telling folks how easy it would be to build one of these!

A bunch of you wanted to know exactly how it was put together. So that’s what I’m going to show you today.

How-To Make A Coat hanger Shelf with Crown Molding (and a few other parts)

The parts of this are very simple and I’ve done a detailed drawing to show you both a cross-section, and a straight-on view (elevation).

If you click on that image, it will open up a larger version. You can clearly see that the shelf assembly is made-up of five parts altogether:

1. A solid 2×10 as the main structure
2. A 1×6 shelf with a rounded front edge
3. Crown molding wrapped on three sides (front and each end)
4. A smaller molding (name varies) used to finish the bottom edge
5. Coat hangers

How-To Build This Coat Hanger Shelf

Materials required:

• 1 – 2″x10″ x 8′ long (any smooth surface wood such as spruce or fir)
• 1 – 1″x6″ x 8′ long (use the same type of wood if possible)
• 1 – 8′ length of approx. 3″ crown molding (may be slightly more or less)
• 1 – 8′ length of smaller 1″ or 1.5″ molding (see drawings for profile)
• 6 – coat hanger hooks (amazon link at end of post)
• 150 grit sandpaper
• 60 grit sandpaper (to round shelve edges – also could use router)
• long screws or toggle bolts to attach 2×10 to wall
• short screws to attach shelf to 2×10
• brad nails, trim nails, or trim screws to attach crown and bottom molding
• wood glue
• primer
• paint
• Coat Hooks

Tools Required:

• This can be done with a handsaw and a hand miter-box, but I would use a 10″ miter saw for all cuts.
• A router would be helpful to round the shelf edges, but you can use sandpaper
• A cordless or corded drill to screw the shelf to the 2×10, to screw the trim on with finish screws if you don’t have a brad nailer or trim nailer (air tools), and to install the whole thing on the wall.

Before we go through the basic steps: I’m not an ultra-detailed instruction kind of fella. I’m more apt to show you picture, tell you what kind of stuff is in it, and keep on rolling than I am to tell you what size screw to use, at what drill speed, at what angle, in what kind of wood, at what time of year, in specific humidity and under the correct astrological sign. If I leave something out, you can ask in the comments.

Step One – Prepare The 2×10

Cutting the 2×10 to length. I’ve drawn the drawing at 6′ long. It works great at that length with six coat hooks and allows it all to be made with 8′ lumber. You can make it whatever length you want.

You have to decide if you want to cut the ends of the 2×10 square or if you want to miter the ends and put a small return into the wall. If you cut it square, you’ll see what’s known as “end-grain” at the ends of the board. This is harder to finish cleanly and smoothly. How hard depends on the lumber. You can cut a test and see if it looks smooth enough. If so, you’ll find a square end-cut to be much easier (and safer to make).

Step Two – Install The Top Shelf

It’s easier to build this whole thing on the ground and paint it prior to installing. So the next step will be to install the shelf on top. I’ve drawn the shelf at 4″ more than the 2×10 on each end, so a total of 6′-8″ long. It is important to note, that this dimension has more to do with the protrusion of the crown molding than anything else. You’ll want to have an understanding of how far out from the face of the 2×10 your crown molding will come before making this cut. See drawings to better understand.

Round the front edge of the shelf using a router or the 60 grit sandpaper. (you’ll need to smooth it with the 150 before painting)

Use wood glue along the top edge of the 2×10 and position the shelf so that the same amount hangs off of each end, past the 2×10 (should be about 4″). I would use brad nails to hold the piece in-place while I add screws to strengthen the joint. You’ll putty and sand the holes before painting. (but these are in an inconspicuous place anyway) Use something like a 2.5″ wood screw, about 10″ on-center (7 or eight screws holding the back edge of the shelf to the top of the 2×10). Depending on the wood and the screws, it may be helpful to pre-drill the holes.

Step Three – Install The Crown Molding

There are many tutorials online about how to cut crown molding. If you can get a helper, the easiest way is to hold it securely in exactly the same position as it will be installed. With something this small you can skip the whole “upside-down cut” thing, but you might need help for safety. You always have to watch your fingers and eyes when cutting with power saws.

You can hold your crown securely on the 2×10 and mark it at each end. I would try and leave the bulk of my “drop” at one end to make cutting the returns safer. You want your crown molding to be the exact length of the 2×10 if measured from the inside bottom of the crown. If anything, make it an eighth longer and split the difference. Just don’t make it shorter!

I’m not a professional how-to author… so I don’t really know how to say… stick the crown molding on there like in the picture! Use brad nails and glue if you have an air nailer. Otherwise you can use trim screws. You can’t hand nail this unless you use a tiny hammer. Since this is not on the wall yet, you won’t be able to hammer it. Too wobbly.

Step Four – Install The Bottom Molding

This is a very similar process to the crown molding, but the bottom molding doesn’t go past the ends, instead it ends just prior to the 2×10 end. Again, see pictures and drawings.

Step Five – Paint it.

I’d fill all nail and screw holes, sand the whole thing with 150 grit, put on a coat of primer, sand again, and paint.

Step Six – Install On The Wall

Here’s where the major disclaimer comes in: every wall is different! How you install this on the wall totally depends on your wall. If you have a wall made of solid 3/4″ thick wood paneling your installation is super easy. If your wall is drywall and your studs are totally not where you need them, then your installation will be harder.

The ideal installation will allow you to install it with long wood screws in the exact location of the coat hooks. This way you can install the coat hooks when it is in place and cover your mounting screws. With the coat hooks set at 12″ apart, this will work on many walls with 24″ OC studs. But it won’t work as well with 16″ OC Studs.

You can just find your studs, screw the shelf to the wall in those locations (getting the strongest attachment to solid wood) and then just install the coat hooks over the screws. If the spacing doesn’t work you can putty and paint over the screws.

Alternatively, you can use adequately sized toggle bolts in the exact location of the coat hooks. Just counter-sink the bolt heads a little so that the coat-hook will fit over the top and cover the toggle bolt.

I’m leaving the final installation open because you really need to be the judge of the strength of your wall, the weight of your shelf, the size of your mounting hardware, and the overall combination of everything.

I hate to sound simplistic about this, but the way most professionals make sure that they have the thing on there really strong is to really pull on it hard. It should be very solidly in-place. If not, it’s not safe to leave on the wall.

If you have questions, ask in the comments and check back there for the answer. I’ll do my best to help.

And don’t forget, this great idea originally showed-up in the Remodeling Guy IdeaLetter. Don’t miss it! The sign-up link is at the top of the page in the header.

If you use these drawings and instructions there is no charge, but there is something you can do to help me… please post links back to this post on your blog, facebook page, twitter, or wherever you can. Those links all help others find this resource which helps the blog to grow over time. Thanks!

Resources at Amazon.com

(bringing back one of my early favorite posts from last winter)

Let’s Roll…

Or brush, or sponge, or rag…even spray! No matter how you do it, just paint!

For most of you (not me!) it’s the dead of winter and outdoor projects are pretty much out of the question!

Even if you’re going to hire someone, it’s too cold to go out there and even show them what you want done! So what to do? How can you scratch that remodeling itch when the mercury drops to unmentionable levels?

I asked myself that question and the first two things I thought of were painting and lighting. They go hand-in-hand and I’ll touch on great lighting tomorrow. But for today, let’s talk about paint.

See the Room as Art!

There is an artist in you whether you know it or not! If you already know it, great! If not, just look at some pictures and ask yourself “Does this inspire me?” When you start to feel inspired, that’s when you’re on the right track. Follow that look and you’ll find what you want for your new space! Let’s start with a simple one and work our way up to CRAZY!

Simple, right? But beautiful too! The contrast of the darker wall color against the bright white trim works great in this nook! Great use of similar colors in the art and furnishings brings it together. A small area like this can be tackled in a weekend and make an impression for years!

Make White Sing!

A white wall has many great characteristics. They make spaces seem more open, and of-course, brighter. Sometimes, when there’s a shortage of natural light or to go with a particular design, white is the way to go.

Two thoughts about white walls:

1. Even if your room is already white and you want it to stay white…repaint it anyway! If the paint is more than a couple of years old, it will make a difference. You might also change a shade to “tweak” the look a little bit. There must be 1,000 “white” colors!
2. Add color with furniture and decor, like in the photo above. You might have an old chair laying around that you can repaint in two hours. Try it…it could change your life! (at least a little bit)

Look Past The Walls!

Feeling inspired yet? If not, check your pulse! These cabinets ROCK! I’m not so sure about the ABC’s on the glass, but I do love the use of color in the kitchen cabinets.

It can easily run $40,000.00 or more for new cabinets. Why not look a little closer and ask that artist in you what other options there might be? If you get a good answer, I’d say you should buy the artist a cup of coffee or something! If not, keep reading…

Hit the Door!

Painting the kitchen cabinets a little bit of a reach for you?  You’re not alone.

The impact you can make by painting a door or window is really astounding! I can’t decide which one I like better, the blue or the red?

What do you think?

So, honestly, don’t you feel like painting? You have options:

Walls, Ceilings, Trim, Doors, Floors, Furniture…

Everything including the Kitchen Sink can be painted, though you might want a pro to hit the sink for you.

The bang for your buck is unmatched and the D.I.Y. difficulty factor is  among the best you’ll find. Go for it!

Get Radical!

If the artist in you still has not stirred, I have one more trick up my sleeve. If this doesn’t get you going, there may be no hope…I’m sorry.

Now THAT is color!

Oh, a couple more details…you have to do it right! The web is full of great resources. I found a site here that has good advice on exactly how to paint. You can also email me for my thoughts if you’d like. I would love to see your before and after photos. I’d love to help.

Let me know if I awoke the artist in you in the comments, and use the ShareThis feature to share this new blog with friends. Just click on that little green button and all the options will show up before your very eyes. If nothing else, it’s colorful!

Call me a rebel, but I’m much happier when things are used in ways other than what was originally intended. Something about seeing real creativity in action makes me feel more creative. More energized really.

You may not realize it, but Remodeling Can Change Your Life, and little acts of rebellion are a great way to start. Like the unorthodox arrangement of these square storage cabinets above. I found this picture at RemodelingCenter.com and I really thought it was groovy!

I really love the use of color in this bath. The little bit of blue in the cubbies really jumps out and grabs your attention.

That’s not the only wicked cool cabinet storage idea I saw today. How about this:

For all I know, this was built just like this from scratch, but I see a creative use of an old hutch in this picture. Find an old hutch somewhere that might have a messed-up bottom section, and use just the top instead of upper kitchen cabinets.

I always think it’s neat to use a table for an island. There is a great one (along with many other awesome islands) in my post on kitchen islands.

And for any who might be wondering… I’m not sure where I’m going with the “Great Ideas for 2010″ thing. I did a #1 post on building a bed swing, so I felt compelled to do a #2, but I don’t suppose I’ll be wanting to have idea #214 come June, so I’ll have to rethink this a bit.

Oh, while we’re talking about using stuff in creative ways, if you happen to need to store ribbon, you should see some of the creative ribbon storage at Everything Etsy.com

Have you ever used cabinetry in a creative way? I’d love to hear about it!

Is it just me, or does everyone look at the ceiling when they enter a new room? I never miss the ceiling details and if you’re looking for a place to start remodeling, I think you should take it from the top!

False beams are a super detail that can be done in most homes. Sometimes called “boxed beams” these are usually not “structural”, meaning they don’t hold anything up; they’re for looks! And they do look good!

It’s pretty common to see these beams done as shown in these photos. The construction consists of four main components:

1. Framing Lumber (not seen)
2. “1-by” Side boards
3. Crown Molding
4. Another 1-by on the bottom

Sometimes, as in the picture at the top, you’ll see these beams “supported” by columns. While often not needed to hold up the roof, the columns look great and add room definition.

There are times when both the beams and columns are structural, so know for sure before you ever take something that looks like this out!

Construction of false beams is fairly simple. I’ve done a quick drawing to show you the parts involved and how they are arranged. Take a look:

Notice that I didn’t show anything about attachment. There are any number of methods for attaching the various parts. If I were doing this job, I would use an air nailer and trim nails, along with a good quality wood glue.

The attachment to the ceiling, on the other hand, is important. It might be helpful for me to tell you at this point that the top 2×4 has to be attached to the ceiling before the beam is built! There are a few ways to do this:

• Attach the 2×4 to solid framing in the attic using lag bolts or large screws.
• Add some blocking or “dead-wood” in the attic for this purpose if none is present.
• Use large toggle bolts. Just be sure to use a sufficient number to carry the weight of your beam!
• DO NOT rely on drywall anchors designed for use in a wall such as plastic expansion anchors or EZ-Anchors. You don’t want this hitting you in the noggin!

Add some v-joint material to cover the ceiling (or use bead board) and you can really kick it up!

Use graph paper and draw out your room to scale so you can mess around with alternative beam arrangements. I prefer symmetry rather than the look in the picture above…but I guess I could live with this kitchen anyway!

Important note: The drawing I did is just one way to do this. The wider your beam gets (notice that the beams in the picture are wide) the less sense it will make to use a solid 2-by along the bottom edge of the beam. You can build up the frame of these things pretty much however you want to, just keep them straight and square and be sure it’s all attached well to the ceiling!

Boxed-Beams

Difficulty: Moderate – While not a project for a complete beginner, this really isn’t that complex. This is especially true if you are going to paint your work, because goof-ups can be covered-up! You’ll need some good tools and ladders!

Time Frame: Short – An average Kitchen could be done in about 40 hours with two people working. This would include the painting time involved. You should at least prime the material before you put it up to reduce overhead paint work.

Cost Range: Medium – A job like this requires no structural work, no drywall work, and only requires painting of the material you’re installing. As such the cost can be well contained. That said, it depends on who you hire or if you DIY it! The materials involved for an average kitchen would generally be less than $500.00

Think Inside the Box!

A long time member of the Remodeling Guy Crew (regular readers and commenters), Denise who blogs at Journey to Maggie May, has been building an addition all summer. It’s a beautiful project and she has pictures on her blog. Denise posted a comment today on a post about Bump-Out Style additions that got me to thinking. (See: Bump-Out Additions – Small Spaces, Big Impact)

Should You Do Your Own Painting?

This is a picture from Denise’s blog of her project. They hired a general contractor to do the work, but saw an opportunity to save some money by doing the painting themselves. While that is obviously much less work than trying to build the whole thing, it still can be a ton of work! Here is her comment:

Hey there, we have been busy with our addition…go check out some pics on my blog. I am so ready for it to be done. I have to say that our biggest mistake was signing up to do all of the painting…never thinking of filling nail holes, caulking, etc…we have bitten off WAY more than we can chew!!

When I saw her pictures I could see why! They have an abundance of painted woodwork in this project and the question of “prep” wasn’t discussed ahead of time.

If you want to paint – Decide about “Prep”

You may not know it, but there is an eternal debate in play between carpenters and painters. The gist of it is “who’s job is it to fill the nail holes, to do the caulking, and most importantly…the sanding?” Ask ten painters and ten carpenters and you’re likely to get twenty variations of what is “right, fair, and professional”.

Personally, I think the carpenter needs to leave his work pretty close to ready. A painter might need to do a little prep work, but not much. I’ll readily admit though, that I’m in the minority. Most jobs leave the prep work to the painter and most carpenters are willing to leave the final outcome of their hard work in the hands of someone else. Not me.

The point is this: Sanding, filling, sanding more, caulking, and priming are about 80% of the work of painting. Most homeowners have experience “re-painting” which is a totally different animal than painting for the first time. If you agree to doing the paint work on your project, a choice Denise would advise against, just be sure you’ve agreed on what exactly you’ll be responsible for before you start.

I’ve seen many a row between painter and carpenter because of a 1/4″ gap in the woodwork. Painter feels that the carpenter ought to rip that board out and do it right! Carpenter feels that a little bit of putty or Bond-O will fix it right-up. It’s one thing when that argument is between two people you’re paying. It is another thing altogether when the argument is between you and your contractor…that can keep you up at night!

Food for thought!

Do you want to make an absolutely stunning difference in any room of your home in less than two days, start to finish? I love big differences made quickly! And this project will do it for sure!

Look at this:

Isn’t this room amazing!

Wonderful Moulding Ideas

I could probably write a whole book about this picture! I love this room. But when I saw it today, it reminded me of something I mentioned in a post early this month at the main Remodeling Guy Blog on Chair Rail and Wainscoting. That being the idea of covering more of the wall, going up to eye level or a little higher with the wainscoting.

One of the most commonly asked questions from people looking for chair rail ideas is “what is the proper chair rail height?”. I answered in the previous post that the best height is around 30″ – 34″ above the floor for most rooms, but that there isn’t a widely accepted “correct” height. But what if you put it higher? What if you move way up the wall, say to 60″ – 64″ off the floor?

Here is another picture:

Beautiful isn’t it?

Let’s Do It!

I want to demonstrate just how dramatically the act of changing out some baseboards and door casings and installing simple bead-board wainscoting will change any room of your house. Let’s get started!

Above, we have a standard room. It has a couple of nice features already with some hardwood floors and a pair of French doors, but other than that it’s bare bones. (Don’t you wish you’re room were just as empty! Moving all the stuff is half the job!)

If you want to do a very quick job, you could do only what I’ve done here in this image. Ive replaced the baseboard with a 5.25″ Primed Base, and added a 2.25″ Chair Rail installed at a height of 33″ above the floor (to the top).

This room has 8′ ceilings. If you have higher ceilings you might raise the chair a little bit, but not much. I also replaced the door and window casing with something with a little bit more detail in the profile. These things made a huge difference! Wouldn’t you agree? Let’s kick it up another notch:

Now I’ve gone from a 2.25″ Chair Rail to a custom moulding which combines a standard profile “Howe” casing with a rounded off peice of 1X2 on top of it to create a little shelf (only about 1.5″ deep) at the top of the chair.

But the real difference is the addition of some color! Nothing sets off a design like white painted chair rail moulding against a nice deep wall color. I’ve shown a taupe-ish color, but it looks great with blues, reds, yellows, you name it! (at this point I started thinking the floor needed to be darker, but never got a round tuit) This is getting fun! Let’s add some wainscoting:

Now we’re cooking with fire! The type of bead-board wainscot paneling I’m showing here is so easy to install it’s not even funny! I’ve shown this with 4″ wide planks, but something with the lines a little closer or a little more spread out would still look fantastic!

If you paint everything with at least one coat of good primer and give it a light sanding before you install it, this can be done in a couple of days easily (depending on room size of course!).

To keep things simple, I would install the paneling first and then install the baseboards and chair rail over it. The extra peice of 1X2 at the top of the chair rail will cover the top edge of the paneling. The only thing to really watch out for is the overall thickness. If it gets too thick it can cause issues around your doors and windows.

To avoid this, I would use thin 1/4″ paneling, a relatively thin baseboard (standard stuff is fine), and a casing with a good wide “back band” type detail, such as the aforementioned “Howe” casing. If you don’t want to change your casing completely, you can just add a “back-band”. I’ll have to get into that in another post.

Now for the Grand Finale:

Whooooo Hoooooo! Isn’t she georgeous! I really like the way this looks! Now, you need to invoke your imagination a little and see it with pictures on the top shelf (which I would make deeper, about 4″ or 5″) and with a little furniture in the room…but this is a showstopper now!

I ran the wainscot up to 63″ in this picture and I think it’s just about perfect for the 8′ room. I also added a very simple and relatively small (3″) crown molding which really caps it off. I tried it at first with a larger, more standard shaped crown and it looked funny. The bead board look just didn’t go with the frilly curves of standard crown. The crown shown here is a simple “cove” molding.

There you go! A quick, project that can make you feel like you’re living in a new house in no time flat and for not more than a few hundred dollars. That’s what I’m talkin’ about!

So,what do you think? Ready to add this to the to-do list? Or maybe the same idea with the panels like in the second photo at the top?